S/V Nevermore Ship's System Descriptions

This document purports to be an exhaustive list of Nevermore's various subsystems, expressed technically. Some sections document technical studies of some of the subsystems because we feel that other mariners will need the information sd they repair or enhance those subsystems. Other sections herein document findings from technical work we've done, which give other workers a chance to double-check their mates' understanding of the systems, in addition to learning more about Nevermore themselves.

It'll become apparent to the reader that the document will be incomplete in many areas, and possibly too detailed in others. Such readers are invited to become editors/researchers and fill in missing information and reorganize the info at hand.

Editor's note: 
 * See Systems Description section numbering 26Dec07 list of subsection names 
   which include subsection numbering which we're going to remove 26Dec07.  We expect 
   that this subsections list will become moot very soon.
 
 * This document is spun off Aleida's Sub-System list version 11June04.

SUBSYSTEMS TO BE ADDED TO THIS DOCUMENT

Traveller (where does this go? Running rigging?)
Jib furler

BOAT SYSTEMS

standing and running rigging (including mast-partners)

* standing rigging (including mast-partners)

* running rigging

                     (do we want this header, since it's just a 
                     nuisance to put sails in subheaders under 
                     it (which we didn't do, you'll notice)
                    (Maybe if I could think of more things to
                     list under standing rigging, I'd like to
                     have separate "standing" and "running" headers?)

MAINSAIL
- Dutchman furling system
- traveller
  - STATUS: the traveller didn't work well when we got the boat 2007. We originally planned merely to re-rig its lines and the like. Then we realized it's pretty bad in general: car doesn't translate easily; the car abrades the dodger; lines in the traveller get abraded by parts of it; lines don't run to cockpit freely, being fouled by dodger access cringles; etc.
    - (See Fix_traveller for an outline of the 2007-08 task to replace the traveller.)
    - (See 2007_Traveler_Pictures for some snaps of the original (2007) traveller.)
- boomvang
- preventer (for boom) (haven't seen one aboard?)

FORESAIL
- Large genoa (what size?)
- Small genoa (what size?) (any head-/tack- pennants needed?)
- jib?
- furler (which is more a Standing Rigging thing, isn't it?)
- spinnaker (size? and its guy snatchblock, pole, pole uphaul? downhaul? sock)
- storm jib??
- storm trysail (main)?

Keel-Centerboard

Nevermore's Keel/Centerboard

The keel provides weight for righting moment, and also accommodates the slot for the centerboard.

Note that we were told that there is a "box" inside the slot that can be unbolted so we can lower the centerboard out. We didn't see such a thing Fall '07.

(See Owner's Instructions pages 4, 5, 5A for rigging and adjusting the centerboard pennant and tag line, and pages 14, 15, 15A for replacing the pennant.)

TODO: find weights of keel and centerboard. TODO: find out possibilities for removing CB.

QUESTION: is there excessive play in the centerboard? When hard on a tack with CB down, it vibrates. It sounds semi-horrid to ThomS, but others say "that's normal..."

Operation Hints:

DO NOT let the pennant run free! I.e., don't let the centerboard drop!
The instructions show how to place the block on the pennant so that the tag line will allow full upward position of the CB, and also allow full extension of the CB when the tag line is freed.
Simplistic guidelines for positioning might (i.e. just dreaming some up Feb08) be:
- deploy down when on the wind
- pull up when running
- positioning too far up going to windward may give more lee helm (CR moves backwards), and of course allows more leeway
- positioning too far up going downwind may allow more yaw (or maybe not, if the sea's wavelength is just-so)
- the more up it's positioned, the less drag the CB gives
- what else?

Ship's Machinery

power train

engine

Identifying info from tag on engine:

model: Westerbeke 50
ser #: 18P/830A/0247B911
spec : 18360 2.1
date : November 1979 manufacture decoded from "0247B911" of serial number
(block #0247 per Svc Bul #132, or of engine per #242; date from "B911" )

REFERENCES:

Our catalog of engine hardcover and web-based documents, including entries defining
- Tech Manual (ENG_TM), and references to subsidiary tech info on this wiki and on the web
- Westerbeke's Parts List (ENG_PL)
- a link to the Parts List put on the web by an independent parts supplier
Tartan's Engine schematic dgm of 12-V DC circuitry which comes with the Engine
- a Wiring Diagram of the circuitry on this schematic is in section Q of the Tech Manual

'Misc observations' (useful in troubleshooting):

Engine instrument panel gauges (05Sep07):

Water Temp gauge

* goes off left (cool) end with sender disconnected (good)

* shows 360 ohm @ 100 deg, 25 ohm @ 230 deg

Oil Pressure gauge

* goes off left (0 psi) end with sender disconnected (good)

(but note: Calder p.288 says most O.P. gauges go to high reading)

* sender shows 460 ohm @ 0 psi, 44 ohm @ 50 psi, 0 ohm @ 80 psi

See Tech Letter #72 page V.4 Engine Manual

"Gauges -vs- Senders non-Interchangeability"

engine mfgr has used 4 different gauge mfgrs for WT & OP, and each

requires sender by same mfgr; diagrams are given for configs of

connections for each kind of gauge gauge.

TODO: define here which make of gauges we have (so tested above),

and (a) mention it in the 2 sets of resistance readings above,

and (b) annotate Engine Manual

transmission

* Appears to be a "Short Profile Sailing Gear" transmission, HBW Model 10

(page S.41 of Engine Manual, by comparing it to descriptions of

about 5 different kinds of transmissions described therein,

then getting the 5, 10 or 20 size from title in |Parts List)

* Type of transmission fluid: ATF type A, or Dextron II

* fluid quantity (for Model 10): 0.6 litre

drive shaft, coupler, stuffing box

propeller

Prop, Cutlass, Zincs

Prop

The prop we got on Nevermore is fixed, 2-bladed. Size & pitch are unknown.

TODO:

look for a prop model number, and/or look for an info folder aboard
look for a cutlass bearing model number or other info aboard
can we measure pitch?
measure shaft diameter (to replace zincs)
- [Thom measured shaft just a little less than 1.5 inch, with dopey micrometer]
mark shaft inside the boat for vertical position of blades

Note that aboard is a datasheet for a VARIABLE prop. We think it is for a 2-bladed prop too. A brochure says "Martec low drag propeller." And a 1985 (I think) application for a racing handicap listed Nevermore as having a variable prop. we assume this IMS handicap application was associated with the 1985 Bermuda race.

steering & binnacle

Wheel, drive & quadrant mechanism, rudder-post

Per Owner's manual page 8, the Tartan-37 is equipped with an Edson Radial Drive pedestal steering system.

The "Information on maintenance ... included elsewhere in this manual" can't be found [ThomS Feb08].

TODO: Enter model numbers herein, and see if any ref material is on web.

emergency tiller

(See Owner's manual page 8, STEERING)

The emergency tiller comes in two pieces.
- One piece fits inside the rudder post, and may be left there.
  - TODO: check that Nevermore's tiller piece is in the rudder post.
- The tiller handle, an aluminum tube, should be stored in the lazarette for immediate use.
The emergency tiller doesn't allow as much rudder angle as the wheel, and force on the tiller can be considerable.
Emergency steering may be easier with the wheel removed.
- The nut should be tried regularly to make sure it can quickly be undone in an emergency.

Thoughts:

The rudder can fail when something jams in the steering quadrant.
- In which case, the tiller may not steer the boat.
  - One might mentally rehearse using the emergency tiller to work the jam free.
- While responding quickly and resolutely, no crew should take chances at getting caught in the cabling or chains while unjamming the cables/quadrant.
- One might mentally rehearse the sound signals for Vessel Not Under Command before needing the signal.
One might rehearse on the water what the emergency tiller feels like when used with the rudder NOT jammed, to have an idea of whether it IS jammed when the steering breaks, since it usually requires a lot of force even when the steering is NOT jammed.

Autopilot

According to the Autopilot manual page 8, a basic autopilot system consists of:

Control Unit (AP11)
- located on port cockpit combing in driver's seat
Junction Unit (J3000X or J300X)
- located on fuel tank bulkhead behind nav station seat
Drive Unit (no model # page 8, RPU80/RPU180 per diagram page 9)
- located to port of steering quadrant in stern lazaret, attaches to underside of quadrant
Fluxgate Compass (RFC35)
- located behind port settee, forward face of panel of cabinet above nav station
  - TODO: verify exactly where it's located (note: we thought (Fall '07) that it is part of RADAR system)
  - hint at possible AutoPilot AND radar use: p.12 Rate compass: improves performance of BOTH systems
Rudder Feedback Unit (RF300)
- location: probably is the unit aft of steering quadrant, a little stbd of centerline; attaches to top of quadrant
power feed from ship's 12V subsystem
- switch #2 observed on vertical set of Nav station switches (we didn't trace this circuit to the system (Fall '07))

STATUS: (Fall 07):

we never tried to operate it
saw NO current load when AUTO PILOT circuit breaker was turned ON;
expected to see a stand-by current, but it MAY have been too small to observe
since AP11 Control Unit max current < 1/2 amp when ON and illumination fully on
we never turned the system on at control unit

bilge pumps

Electric Bilge Pump

Jabsco Water Puppy (Model 18660-0121).

Specs:

Body	Bronze
Impeller	Neoprene p/n 6303-0001, -0003 nitrite for oil-resistence
Voltage	12 Vdc
Amp Draw	8 amp
Fuse Size	15 amp
Port Type	1/2" Internal Pipe Threads
Dimensions	3 x 4-3/4 x 6-3/8 inches (7.6 x 12.0 x 16.2 cms)
Weight	4-1/2 lb (2 kg)

More information can be found in the Jabsco Water Puppy Technical Data Sheet

This pump is mounted on the port side of the stern lazarette. A white, corregated plastic ("Bilge-flex"), 3/4" I.D. hose leads from the bilge to the pump. A white, corregated plastic, 5/8" I.D. hose leads from the pump to a through-hull port on the starboard side near the stern. Note that this is the same port used by the manual bilge pump.

The bilge pump is wired directly from battery #1 to the 3-way switch on the nav station breaker panel. The up position manually turns on the pump. The down position puts the pump in automatic mode, in which a "float switch" will turn on the pump when water level in the bilge rises. A 15-amp fuse is inline with the positive lead from battery #1. The yellow rubber fuse holder for this fuse is strapped to the wiring harness that runs directly above battery #1.

Also see Bilge pump 3-way toggle switch table for an outline description of the above paragraph.

The float switch (which doesn't actualy float) for the bilge pump is located behind the aft-most panel above the port bench in the cabin (just forward of the nav station). An orange hockey-puck-sized rubber cover surrounds a microswitch which is affixed to a rubber diaphram. A black plastic air tube runs from the diaphram to a plastic air bell in the bilge. Rising water in the bilge will increase air pressure in the tube and activate the switch.

As of 9/3/2007, the switch is not sensitive enough to be activated by 6 inches of water.  
Deeper water might activate the pump, but the required depth is unknown.  
A newer model float switch (Jabsco Hydro Air Bilge Switch) will be ordered.
Old switch probably Licon Switch 11-330071 10-amp (per Thom scruffy note).

Manual Bilge Pump

This pump is mounted on stern lazaret to starboard of steering position. Its handle is tied to boat in stern lazaret. A second handle is aboard. Gray corrugated plastic hose, approx 1", leads from bilge to pump.

TODO: define hose to thru-hull, and position of thru-hull.

TODO: define model number, capacity, etc., of pump.

head

Nevermore Blackwater Plumbing Schematic

Nevermore is equipped with a standard marine toilet and a plastic holding tank. It is classified as a "Type III Marine Sanitation Device", which means that the waste is not treated, it is simply stored inside the holding tank until it can be pumped out. Note that there is no way to pump out the holding tank from the boat; the waste must be sucked out of the holding tank through the "waste" deck fitting.

The yellow handled seacock under the sink in the head allows seawater to be pumped into the toilet bowl. This seacock also serves as a scupper for the sink.

If the flush valve next to the hand pump is in the "flush" position (vertical), then seawater will be pumped into the bowl when the the hand pump is operated. If the flush valve is in the "pump dry" position (horizontal and to port), then no seawater will be added to the bowl during pumping.

The hand pump simulateously pumps seawater into the bowl (if the flush valve is open) and waste out of the bowl. The waste is pumped through about 15 feet of 2" O.D. hose, which includes an anti-siphon loop. After the loop, the waste goes into a plastic Y-valve with a blue handle that is under the sink basin. If you can read the words "to tank" on the blue handle, then the waste is being pumped into the holding tank under the port side V-berth. If you can read the word "overboard" on the blue handle, then waste is being routed to the large bronze seacock.

During normal operation of the vessel, the Y-valve should be in the "To Tank" position and the large bronze seacock should be closed.

Three hoses go from the holding tank up to the port side deck. A 2" diameter hose goes to the pumpout port on the deck (labeled "Waste"). A 1" diameter hose goes to a water inlet port next to the pumpout port. This inlet has garden hose threads and can be used to facilitate flushing out the holding tank. Another 1" diameter hose goes from the top of the holding tank to an air vent on the upper topsides, just below the pumpout port.

ice box

This writer hasn't checked out the ice box, but has tripped across various info here-'n'-there [ThomS Feb08]:

The ice box part will obviously use ice for cooling.
- QUES: where does the melting ice drain to.
  - We know that it does NOT drain to the "sump" discussed Owners Manual page 11
- QUES: where should the ice be put (esp. given that maybe its "classic" ice box functionality will be modified by the fact that it's also a refrigerator.
The ice box is also a refrigerator.
- there's a compressor unit mounted high up in starboard lazarette; probably on forward bulkhead, but maybe on hull (sorry, don't remember)
- the compressor probably doesn't work, or is burned out, or there's a switch local to the ice box, or wiring is removed, based on test Fall '07 by turning on the REFRIGERATION switch on main switch panel and observing that NO current was indicated on the main switch panel ammeter.

STATUS: (as commented above): not sure if has "classic" ice holder; not sure where ice melt drains; refrigeration indicates NO electrical battery use implying another switch, or something burned out or disconnected.

Stove

See T37 Owner's Instructions pages 16-17 for operation of the stove.

SAFETY COMMENTS:

Based on experiences on Aleida with the same kind of stove, a few items of these instructions should be highlighted.

The statement that "the gas is burned in much the same manner as in a home has stove" is literally true, but somewhat misleading because it might imply that one turns on the gas, lights the stove, and is ready to cook. However, the steps 7, 8, 9, and part of 10 -- which comprise turning on the gas and lighting the stove, imply a more complicated situation, and with good reason.

Especially step 7 -- wherein we get some alcohol into the lower part of the burner -- is important to get right. We can suggest looking in the burner with a flashlight as the valve is turned on to "watch the alcohol flowing into the little pan," to make SURE not to get too much fuel in the little cup. Maybe the "one turn" on is an excessive amount to turn the valve on, unless the stove hasn't been used for awhile. [At least one Aleida skipper found it IMPOSSIBLE to describe what's needed without a demonstration...]

Part of the instructions in step 8 include "if the flames are licking at the overhead, ... extinguish with water." Think about it: if you're gonna boil some water anyway, why not draw it BEFORE your first times at lighting the stove.

We note that step 11's order of turn-off (master shut-off valve first, then burner valve) may be different from instructions in the paperwork that came with the stove, and was not used on Aleida as far as I [ThomS] knows. However, it does give a more safe condition for the stove when it isn't being used, purging pressure from the fuel line.

Fresh Water System

Page 10 of the T37 Owner's manual describes operation and maintenance of the fresh water system; however, the system has been changed, especially concerning filling the tanks, as mentioned later below.

The fresh water system is supplied by 2 tanks, a 30-gallon tank on the port side, and a 60-gallon tank on the starboard side. Each tank has 2 inspection ports which are easily accessed through the lower berth/bench on either side of the main cabin.

Valves under the cabin floor connect the two tanks. Either tank can supply water to the ship's fresh-water system, or both tanks can be linked together.

There are two fill fittings on the starboard deck, one for each tank, while the original configuration had only ONE fill fitting. Nevermore's copy of the Owner's manual has been marked up to indicate how to fill both tanks (the original configuration required filling the port tank through the starboard tank.)

Note the admonition (also on page 10, in the "HOT WATER" section) that the fresh-water pump should be ON while heating water using 110-volt shore power. The water is usually warmed by the engine's fresh-water cooling water; this does not require the pump to remain ON; there's no control to turn this heating on or off.

(this is a rough diagram - just testing my ability to upload images to the wiki)

Fresh Water Pump

Nevermore Water Pressure Pump

Jabsco Par-Max 3.0 (Model 31395-3000).

Specs:

Voltage	12 Vdc
Amp Draw	5.2 amp @ 10 PSI
Fuse Size	10 amp
Flow	3.0 GPM
Ports	"Snap-Fit" ports with 1/2" hose adapters
Dimensions	9 x 4.2 x 4.75 inches
Weight	4-1/2 lb (2 kg)

The water pressure pump is located just forward of the starboard tank, under the lower berth. Diaphram design allows pump to run dry without damage. Internal pressure sensor stops the pump when working pressure is acheived.

Fresh Water Strainer

Nevermore Fresh Water Strainer and Accumulation Tank

Jabsco Pumpgard (Model 36400-0000)

Water from one or both tanks is filtered by a steel screen strainer which is inline just before the water pump.

The strainer can be cleaned by unscrewing the plastic cover from the top, removing the cylindrical screen, and rinsing it out with fresh water.

Ship's Electrical Subsystems

12-Volt DC

Switch Panel at Nav Station

Meters, Bilge Pump Switch and Main Switch Panel

The switch panel above the nav table is organized into groups of controls including (from left to right):

Meters for battery voltage and current
Electric Bilge Pump Switch
Main Switch Sub-Panel - two horizontal rows of 6 switches or switch/breaker combination
1. top row has 6 switch/breaker devices
2. bottom row (probably) has switch-only devices
Secondary Vertical Switch Sub-Panel - 7 switching devices a mix of switch-only and switch/breakers
Nav Instruments Sub-Panel

     See nav_station_switches for tables of usages of individual switches.
     See nav_station_switches_wiring for diagrams and discussions.

Meters (volts and amps)

Meter ranges: voltmeter 0 - 25 VDC; ammeter 0 - 50 A

Voltmeter quirk: it appears to read high by approx 1.4 or 1.5 volts. The zero-point for the meter has been adjusted to read battery voltages correctly therefore the zero-point will be off-scale.

Note: an expanded-range voltmeter might be better, e.g. 9 - 15 VDC.

Ammeter reads only the current being used by some of the ship's systems, but not any usage by the engine; it especially does not indicate battery charging; the ammeter on the engine control panel does that.

In addition, the ammeter terminal with 12-V feed from the batteries (red "thick" wire (approx #10-gauge) also has a "thick" white wire going back out of the panel via the wiring bundle; we suspect there's a ship's system which is powered by this wire which does NOT have its current reported by the ammeter.

TODO: trace the white "thick" wire from the ammeter and find the unknown ship's system.

Electric Bilge Pump Switch

OFF, AUTOMATIC, or MANUAL operation of the single bilge pump.
Voltage is ALWAYS on to this switch, even when main rotary switches are OFF.
It is always connected to power from Battery #1, through an inline fuse located in the wiring harness above the battery. Removing the fuse removes voltage from the main panel's bilge-pump circuits.
Use of switch is defined in Electric Bilge Pump section.

A note on terminology: The terms "bilge" and "sump" are synonymous on Nevermore; Tartan's original "sump" was a separate catch-basin for ice box and shower water, while "bilge" was used normally. As far as we know (Sep07), the "sump" isn't used any more, and we use the 3-way switch to provide

TODO: mark up T37 Owner Manual page 11 to NOT talk about the "sump".
TODO: check whether the refigerator (ice box) still drains water into any kind of sump.
TODO: Check whether left-most lower horizontal row switch "SUMP PUMP" still has anything to do with old or new "sump pump" like Owner's manual p.11 described??

Main Switch Sub-Panel (horizontal switches)

Twelve combination switches/circuit-breakers arranged in two horizontal rows.
Battery voltage to this sub-panel's switches is OFF unless battery power is ON on one (or more) main rotary battery switch.
No voltage is applied to the remainder of the 11 switches unless the upper-left-most switch of this sub-panel (named "MAIN") is on.

See nav_station_switches for tables of usages of individual switches.
See nav_station_switches_wiring for diagrams and discussions.

Vertical Switch Panel

Vertical Switch Sub-Panel at Nav Station

Note that the horizontal sub-panel's "main" switch does NOT control power to this sub-panel; it is not separately fused.

Nav Instruments Sub-Panel

Nav Instruments Sub-Panel

This control subpanel is associated with cockpit Nav instruments.

The lamp dimmer control sends voltage to the cockpit instruments
Blue switch is an additional circuit breaker for the Nav Instruments
12-V DC is conditioned by the MAIN (top-left switch/ckt-brkr in horiz row) switch and then by the NAVIG INSTR switch (3rd from left in bottom horiz row)

TODO: check how the distance log is wired and verify that it works.
- Thom's guess: logs usually work off knotmeter (or are integral with them)
- Two wires go from the counter out the wiring bundle allegedly to an instrument; we didn't see any other circuit within this sub-panel connected to the counter's drive circuit; one wire is grounded in the main panel; the other wire must get its signal from the instrument itself to "pulse" the counter.

Batteries

Batteries #1 and #2

Batteries #1 & #2 controlled by top main rotary switch.
They are "mixed use" (starting and deep discharge) batteries of the same type
They are located below nav station seat: #2 is fwd, #1 aft
Model: Powermaster DC-27P, flooded, 750 MCA, 200 min reserve

Battery #3

Battery #3 is controlled by bottom main rotary switch.
It is a "heavy duty marine starting" battery
Located under the stairs, just forward of the engine.
Model: Powermaster (unknown model), flooded, (unknown values)

Rotary Battery Switches

The two rotary battery switches are Guest 2300A, 360-amp, 600-amp momentary.
Both have AFD (alternator field disconnect) but they aren't wired, hence it is very important that at least ONE battery be selected ON at all times that the engine is running.

Emphasizing importance of above: we've found NO alternator protector (West Marine catalog index term) to prevent over-voltage from blowing the alternator's diodes when all batteries are turned "OFF" while running the engine; nor are the AFD (alternator field disconnect) contacts on the main switches wired (nor can they BE wired, with the present wiring of the bottom switch Batt #2 contact.)

TODO: put some of the AFD unwirability discussion in a "quirk" section,

and make a simpler statement in THIS paragraph...

See Main Batteries Usage Strategies for instruction and rationales for battery switching and use.

See Main 12-volt Control Schematic Diagram which includes schematic (graphic) and a walk-thru of circuitry (text).

120-V AC Battery Charger

This unit is located directly forward of the nav station and under the port-side settee. It is powered by 120-V AC shore power, and outputs three isolated lines of +13.x V DC for charging 3 batteries. There is a common "-" also.

The converter also accepts a 12-V DC signal from the engine which inhibits charging output from the Converter when the engine is running; i.e., when the signal line has 12-V on it. This input comes (by the small blue wire) from the engine such that the 12V is ON when the fuel-pump switch is closed. If the batteries are weak when starting, such that voltage in the "blue wire" drops sufficiently, the charger will boost starting current to the engine if the charger is ON.

There is a switch for turning ON the 120-V AC input to the Converter. The main AC switch (left one on bulkhead above the Nav station) activates the 110-V AC power source for the charger.

On Nevermore, there are two 2-conductor "romex" wires with the 12-V DC charging current, each with 1 black and 1 white wire); these four wires are used as follows:

2 whites to "+" of Batteries #1 and #2, connected to these terminals on top primary battery switch;
1 black to "+" of Battery #3's terminal on lower primary battery switch; and
1 black common "-" connected to the common ground 12-V "-" point of the engine.

On Nevermore, the blue charge-inhibition wire is connected to the fuel-pressure switch on the engine, such that it delivers +12v when the engine is running, i.e. when the fuel-pressure switch is ON.

 NOTE: This blue wire was disconnected while trouble-shooting a problem with the 
 alternator in Fall 2007.  As of May 8, 2008, it was still disconnected.  It must
 be reconnected before attempting to use the charging system.

Circuit protection includes:

2 30-amp fuses in 110V-AC input line, one in each line (white & black); schematic shows them wired before the unit's on/off switch, which is only in one line (black);
2 1-amp fuses in the 12V-DC "blue wire" charging shutdown circuit which is activated when the engine is running; we only use one of these lines; note that -- if the fuse blows -- the charger will NOT be shutdown when the engine is running;
a 50-amp circuit breaker, mounted on front panel, is in series with the common "+" point of the 3 isolation diodes for the charging currents to the 3 batteries;
a thermal breaker on the transformer, modulates a point within the semiconductor charge-control-feedback circuitry.

The output voltage is adjustable (with a wire-wound resistor tap, Thom believes) but it isn't something that is done in normal operation. E.g., the instructions say to have the batteries all charged up when you adjust it, so that it's not the kind of thing we'd do to quick-charge a battery, for example.

More 12-V DC charging functions of this Converter are detailed in subsection 4 of 12V schematic walk-thru
The 110-V AC function (shore power) for this battery charger are given in 120-volt AC section below.

**Specifications - 120-V AC Battery Charger**
Input power:	100 to 130-V AC, 8 amp
Output power:	12-V DC, 30 amp (Thom assumes 30 amp shared across all 3 ckts)
Duty cycle:	80 [something?] GR
Manufacturer:	Raritan Engineering Co, Milville, NJ
Model:	R3012-3 Crown Automatic Marine Converter
Serial No:	1090621 (probably; Th's notes soiled)

Operation:

The ship's main 110-V AC switch to left of nav station must be ON, and of course the shore power cord should be powered, before the charger's front-panel switch will turn on power; the front-panel pilot light should then illuminate. The pilot light will remain ON even when the engine is running such that the charger output is inhibited.

The following admonitions are given to prevent serious damage to the converter:

Always use a battery with the converter; don't run it open-load;
observe correct polarity of the battery line on hook-up;
do not test for converter output by momentarily flashing the positive and negative DC out leads (as is sometimes done with batteries.)

Observation:

Looking to the future, we boserve that the charger (converter) is designed to charge up to 3 12-volt lead-acid (flooded) batteries. There's NO indication that it is useful for more modern battery types (e.g. Gel or AGM). Its charging profile for lead-acid batteries appears pretty trivial: it was observed (Nov07-Jan08) to charge moderately charged-up batteries for just maybe 10 minutes and then fade fairly quickly to a trickle-charge, as would be appropriate if Nevermore were kept at a pier with shore-power for long periods of time.

TODO: find exactly where the blue wire connects to engine-running signal.

Navigation Lights

Tricolor, Anchor, Strobe

Tri-Color/Anchor/Strobe

Model: Aquasignal Series 40: tricolor / anchor / strobe, quicfits (Model # 40806)
"Quicfits" connector means that the unit can be easily unclipped from the top of the mast by sqeezing the black tabs at the bottom of the unit and pulling the whole assembly up.

Bulbs:
- tricolor: 12V, 25W, 15D bayonet base (Aquasignal Part# 90002)
- anchor: 12V, 10W, 15D bayonet base (Aquasignal Part# 90005)
- strobe: 12/24V, 8W, Xenon Strobe (Aquasignal Part# unknown - maybe 90009)
Visibility (from Aquasignal website):
- tricolor: 2nm
- anchor: 2nm
- strobe: 3nm
Aquasignal Website

Dissassembled Steaming / Foredeck Light Assembly

Steaming/Foredeck Light

Make and model is unknown. Similar models use 10W bulbs for steaming light and 20W flood bulbs for foredeck illuminaton.

TODO: determine make and model
TODO: determine bulb types

Sidelights/Sternlight

TODO: determine bulb types

120-volt AC

Here's a few observations of 120-volt AC circuits off top-of-my-head:

Shore power connector on port quarter; it is the aft-most of 2 connectors. (Other is "phone".)

Two CktBrkrs on bulkhead to left above nav station seat
- port-most CktBkr: "110 V AC" which we assume is a master switch/CktBrkr for all 120-V AC. The circuits Thom has observed include:
  - 120-volt AC -to- 12-volt DC Converter unit, for charging batteries, under settee directly in front of Nav station
  - 120-volt "wall-socket" in head
  - 120-volt "wall-socket" over sink (or thereabouts)
  - perhaps also enables the CktBrk below (hot water)
- starboard-most CktBkr: "WATER SYSTEM" which is heater unit in the same hot water tank that the engine water heats. See Tartan User's Guide for admonition not to turn on 120-volt to heater unless water pressure pump is also turned on.

The shore-power connection is for 120-volt AC, 20/30-amp locking connectors.
Two shore power cords are aboard, both with 30A locking connectors. Each is probably 25 foot length.

TODO: check continuity w/o plugging in to shore, trying to have only the water heater on 
      in one test to see whether it's connected, etc.  (Hint: the battery charger Converter 
      has a primary on/off switch which Thom assumes switches the AC power on/off.)
TODO: add page number in T. U.G. for admonition about having water pressure on for heater.
DONE: check that shore cords are compatible with ship's connector.
TODO: measure length of cords.

anti-electrolysis

Calder uses the terms "galvanic corrosion" (p.132) and "stray-current corrosion" (p.140) instead of "electrolysis". The result of both kinds of corrosion is that metal parts get acted on to become spongy, brittle, porous, or just lose metal and crumble away. The use of sacrificial zinc objects helps alleviate this hazard.

 TODO: make a reference to Calder "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" 2nd Ed; 
 but first, make a "hardcopy" book reference list at upper levels of this wiki.

A simplistic description of the cause of, and solution to, these corrosions (AKA electrolysis):

Any two different metals immersed in salt water (an electrolyte) develop a difference in voltage between :each other. This galvanic voltage will cause a current to flow from the lower voltage metal to the higher voltage one, and to return through any metallic connection between the two metals. The result of these flows is that the lower voltage metal is consumed. The dissimilar metals can be physically found in two different boat parts immersed in the salt water, or in one boat part from an ALLOY of two (or more) metals, in which case the return path is the metal itself.

Voltage difference among boat parts can come about from electrical power sources aboard the boat. These can force stray current flow through the water and through underwater parts. The metal parts are susceptible to being consumed by the current.

Placing a zinc object in the salt water, and connecting all other metal objects in the salt water electrically to the zinc object, ensures that any current generated by any dissimilar metals, or by stray currents, will cause the sacrificial zinc to be eaten away rather than any of the other parts.

When to replace an anode (a zinc): [West Marine catalog 2007, p.361]:

effectiveness depends on good electrical connection
effectiveness directly proportional to surface area
- some manufacturers suggest replacement when zinc is 2/3 gone
- West recommends replacement when half-eroded or half-dissolved
- [ThomS's modification of above statement]: pencil-zincs may require replacement when only the part of them in the water has "half-eroded or dissolved", not the whole area or mass of zinc

Types of Material: [West Marine catalog 2007, p.361]: Zinc or aluminum for saltwater; magnesium for fresh water; aluminum for salt and brackish water.

- - - - * sacrificial guppy on cable

- - - - * sacrificial zinc on prop-shaft

2 prop-shaft zincs

P1090819-zincs-2007-144p6q shows the prop-shaft zincs Fall 2007, printed large enough to show their inhabitants and erosion of the zinc a bit.

We assume they installed two smaller ones rather than one zinc so that there'll be adequate total surface area without causing the prop to be in the wash of the zincs.

We don't know whether the erosion on these zincs is excessive; we think not, except that one seemingly knowledgeable sailor mentioned that maybe zinc can be eroded, leaving only any other metal the zincs include to make them stronger, etc.

We measured the shaft at just under 1.5 inches, inside the hull, maybe 6 to 12 inches aft of the shaft coupling to the transmission. Who knows whether it's the same diameter outside the hull?

- - - - * sacrificial zincs in engine

2 Engine zincs

There are two pencil-zincs protecting the engine; one is in the heat exchanger, and one is in the oil cooler.

See Engine zincs replace 2007 for a report and discussion of replacing the two engine pencil-zincs.

           See pp.220-221 Westerbeke Parts List, item 33, #11885 
                * pencil-zinc in heat exchanger item 23
                * pencil-zinc in lube oil cooler item 32
           Engine manual mentions something like "zinc in heat exchanger" (p.20) 
                but doesn't mention one in oil cooler.
           Maintenance log (penned on back page of manual)
                says "replaced both zincs..." but implied only the 
                heat exchanger one was rotted away (27Nov83, 454 hrs).
                Also change ZN 01Jul95
           Another ancient log (on 1-2 pages looseleaf notebook paper) may
                also mention condition and replacement of zincs
                [ThomS couldn't find these sheets Jan08 when looked quickly]

           TODO: bring up to THIS page the more detailed findings from 
                Engine zincs replace 2007 including:
                  a: 2 sizes of pencil-zincs, though parts list says they're identical; 
                  b: give references to parts list pages where 
                     heat exchanger and oil cooler are pictured; 
                  c: check whether Calder's winterizing checklist 
                     indeed does NOT mention to check zincs

- - - - * sacrificial zinc connected to ship's common ground

We don't see any such device on Nevermore.

We note that -- although they're needed to provide a ground as part of the antenna system of a HF radio -- they often aren't fitted if no HF radio is aboard. Hevermore doesn't have an HF radio, only a VHF.

Question: is ThomS confused above? Isn't external copper [sintered] plate desired for HF radio ground? Maybe we do NOT usually have an uber-ground-plate outside the null for the galvanic corrosion?

QUESTION: would one be desired/required if we actually get lightning protection?

lightning-dissipation

Electronics

Fathometer

Model: SL200DL

Serial No.: 012726

Depth Transducer:

Manufacturer: Airmar
Removable Core
Frequency: 200kHz
Part No.: 31-241-3-01
Purchased new: May 2008

Knotmeter

Model: Datamarine DCS100

This instrument is missing. It was last seen Fall 2007.

The speed transducer is in the posession of Ted Young.

The "dummy plug" core is in place in the boat.

Windmeter

GPS - Fixed Mount

Model: Garmin GPSMAP 276C

Software Revision: 5.20 (current as of Jun 9, 2008)

Specifications:

Unit dimensions: WxHxD	5.7" x 3.2" x 1.9" (14.5 x 8.1 x 4.8 cm)
Display size: WxH	3.0" x 2.2" (7.6 x 5.6 cm)
Display resolution	480 x 320 pixels
Display type	256-color TFT
Weight	13.6 oz (385 g)
Battery	rechargeable internal lithium-ion
Battery life	up to 15 hours
Waterproof	yes (IPX7)
Antenna	detachable 50-ohm BNC
NMEA input/output	NMEA 0183
Basemap	yes
Built-in memory	none (cannot load maps to internal memory)
Accepts data cards	Garmin data cards
Waypoints	3000
Routes	50
Track log	10,000 points

Features:

Garmin sonar compatible: yes
Supports DSC (displays position data from DSC capable VHF radio): yes
Audible alarms: yes
Tide tables: yes
Hunt/fish calendar: yes
Sun and moon information: yes
Automatic routing (turn by turn routing on roads): yes
Headphone jack/audio line-out: yes

Garmin Chart Cards:

Bluechart: Cape Cod: Model US003R (Jun 2007)

Gloucester through New London, including Narragansett Bay, Block Island, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket Island, the entire Cape, and includes general coverage Georges Bank

Bluechart: South Maine: Model US002R (< 2006)

Penobscot Bay through Gloucester, including Casco Bay and Cape Ann

Documentation:

RADAR

Display: Ratheon R20XX display unit (mounted to the left of the nav station)
Antenna: Raytheon R20XX raydome antenna (mounted on the mast)

Status (May 23, 2008) System has been tested "on the bench" and appears to function correctly. See full status report

RADAR detector

C.A.R.D. (Collision Avoidance Radar Detector)

Receives radar signals from other boats (passive receiver) and sounds alarm and indicates octant of bearing to the ship.

VHF Radio - Fixed Mount

VHF Radio - Hand-held

Hull and joinerwork inside

dimensions & capacities

            hull: draft (CB down/up), LOA, LWL
            hull number:          design number:
            mast height:
            displacement:
            keel / CB weight:
            fuel capacity:
            fresh water:  capacity:      number of tanks

thru-hulls

tools (esp. emergency

            * thru-hull valve handle wrench
            * sledge hammer for thru-hull plugs
            * cable cutters for shrouds
            * axe esp. to cut away mast

joinery

- - - - * "floor-joists" & tabs to hull

- - - - * cabin sole and hatches

- - - - * drawer open-stops and latches

- - - - * main hatch, companionway, wash boards

hull/deck/cockpit

DINGHY

               incl pump, oars/oarlocks, motor, bailer
               such things as thwart, bow splash-cover
               fuel tank/filler cap/airvent, fuel-hose, pressure bulb
               painter(s) / tow-line
               anchor and rode
               lights

SAFETY/EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT

dedicated safety equipment

NOTE: we're dumping in Aleida's entry right now (28Aug07)

NOTE: we're striking out old Aleida parts of entries (11Apr08)

fire extinguishers ~~(2 mounted, 1 extra) (TODO: define type, size)~~ EMGCY

~~2 mount by companionway and in head; 1 extra in fwd cabin shelf~~

signal flares and flag ~~(in the orange tub by companionway stairs)~~ EMGCY

~~(out of date flares in another orange tub forward cabin)~~

~~TODO: mention what all is in the primary orange tub~~

manual bilge pump (and handle) ~~(under sink main cabin)~~ [thru-hull] EMGCY
liferaft ~~(big, simple, open, self-inflatable) (in stbd laz) EMGCY~~

TODO: fill in info about liferaft

PFDs
- type 1 (NOTE: OUPV class skippers will probably require all type-1s aboard Nevermore)
- type 4 ~~(2 cushions)~~ (TODO: how many, where) SAFETY
- inflatable type 5 equiv type 2 manual op (25? pounds flotation) SAFETY
  
  TODO: how many? and list the belt version?
- type 3 jackets (like pavilion) ~~(in stbd laz hammocks)~~ SAFETY
- type 3 "collars" (use with inflatables) ~~(in port laz plastic "box")~~ SAFETY
harnesses (not known compat with PFDs) SAFETY
- jacklines (2) (TODO: find or buy)
- jackline attachment points and harness eyebolts (TODO: define)
MOB horseshoe + drogue ~~+ flag + strobe [6-v screw-term lantern batt]~~ EMGCY
MOB lifesling EMGCY
- (no lifesling block-n-tackle: use spinnaker halyard)

QUESTION: does Nevermore usually carry a spinnaker halyard?

first aid kit ~~stored in cupboard in head)~~ EMGCY
- first aid reference book (do we have ANY??) EMGCY
emergency tools: ~~cutaway: shroud cutter, hacksaw?, axe~~ EMGCY
QUESTION: do we want to list emergency tiller here? EMGCY

cross-ref to other boat equipment for safety/emergencies