Talk:Winterizing
Contents
Fuel/Water Separator
We see about 3/8-inch water at bottom of bowl. Tried 19Nov to loosen drain thumbscrew, but believe only thumb-hold is turning, and it (or screw) makes terrible screech, and I'm worried about getting screw back in if I DO get it out. That is, replace it in timely manner before we get air in the fuel feed and have to bleed it (esp. without another hand aboard to crank engine or hand-pump fuel.)
A related thought thread is that I don't know whether there's a filter element in the top (metal) part of the unit. Nevermore's CAV unit has no part-number, and it doesn't match what's shown in the Parts List.
Fogging Cylinders
The Westerbeke FAQ has a section on winterizing that states that fogging cylinders is really only necessary when laying up the boat for more than 12 months.
Holding Tank
Is there some product available for putting in the holding tank to keep it from being stinky? --Ted 06:47, 23 October 2007 (EDT)
Yes. Per West Marine catalog: (index terms under Head: Chemicals, Deodorants, Lube, Treatments):
- Chem treatment kills bacteria, masks smells with deodorant;
- Enzyme treatment accelerates organic work, neutralizes odors;
- Nitrate treatment gives oxygen in badly ventilated tanks so organic work makes nitrogen (odorless) instead of hydrogen sulfide (stinky); QUESTION: is our smell "rotten eggs" or "poopy"?
- Bio-active treatment in well-ventilated tanks breaks down waste and crowds out anaerobic (stinky) bacteria; QUESTION: does our 1" vent pipe and above deck vented (maybe?) cover imply "well-ventilated tank"?
West catalog has 4, 2, 1, 2 products for treatment types 1,2,3,4 respectively, and 1 pump lube. I think we used a #2 (Headzyme brand) on Aleida. If we call our smell hydrogen sulfide (not poopy), I'd vote to upgrade to a #3 treatment. I'll sniff 'em out at next West marine visit. Note that types 2,3,4 don't like residual chemicals in tank when they're applied. Hence, can we wait 'til spring when we flush out the antifreeze? --ThomS 00:20, 3 November 2007 (EDT)
Antifreeze/rocksalt for bilge
Something to decide on: Bilgepump leaves a few inches of water, maybe(?) enuf to hurt when frozen. We noticed a lot of water pumped out 04Nov, and we THINK(?) we ran bilgepump after hauling 26Oct. So did we get rainwater in big storm last week? Will the cover preclude more water? Should we put in the new bilgepump switch before winter? How much water do we need in bilge's sump before it will damage the fiberglass? If we DO want to count on bilgepump, rocksalt is called for. Otherwise, some antifreeze may obviate the worry.
Genoa Fold & Bag / Main
Fran suggests getting this sail washed and checked. It's the smaller genoa, and our bigger one has been repaired, ahd we're guessing the bigger one will be installed in the Spring. Main should be washed & checked too. -- ThomS 03Nov then Fran & Thom 05Nov07
Batteries
If we conclude that the bilge pump is not needed over the winter, we should consider removing the batteries and keeping them hooked up to a trickle charger over the winter. --Ted 14:11, 8 November 2007 (EST)
