Difference between revisions of "Talk:Winterizing"
m (fix typo, underline) |
m (SEPARATOR: add "turbine" not effective sail) |
||
| (10 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown) | |||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| − | == | + | == Fuel/Water Separator == |
| − | + | We see about 3/8-inch water at bottom of bowl. Removed drain screw, air bubbles went in, [apparently] fuel came out but no water. Stopped draining because of fear of getting air in fuel lines when we might not be able to crank engine to bleed lines in very cold weather. First time I tried to loosen drain screw, it screeeached like it was going to break; indeed, it's cross-threaded, and I couldn't start it correctly when it replaced it after trying to drain water. | |
| − | + | Another track of concern in winterizing is that it isn't clear that this device has a filter element that should be changed; seems it could, but it's not in Parts List. This CAV unit seems to have no part-number on the unit, and it doesn't match what's shown in the [[Nevermore_Documents#ENG_PL| Parts List]]. | |
| − | + | ||
| + | More study explains our confusion: Parts List p.214/216 (Fuel System) DOES picture our Filter (item 46, #11598 "Primary Fuel-Dedimenter Filter." Indeed, no filter element is listed. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Parts List p.218 (...Water Separator) shows a DIFFERENT "Water Separator". Ah ha! A filter element is listed (and a petcock at bottom looks MUCH easier to drain with than the nylon thumbscrew on the CAV unit. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Parts gal at Hansen Marine verifies that (a) our p.214 CAV unit is obselete; (b) the newer p.218 unit is a Racor R500MA. We can make life easy for $212 to MIT ($250 list). | ||
| + | |||
| + | There's another wrinkle: West Marine 2007 catalog has a Racor R500MA2. Thom guesses the "2" means it has the little metal bowl under the glass bowl. Catalog has an "education" block about ABYC requirements for diesel fuel filters: the metal bowl outside the plastic/glass bowl is a fire shield for units mounted in the engine compartment. The "turbine series" of filter/separators, of which the R500MA2 is one, seems to allow inspecting for water even though it has a metal cup. $256 list. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Let's see whether the surveyor demands one of these babies... | ||
| + | |||
| + | Noting something I read the last few months: The newer styles of these filter/separators emphasize the "turbine" feature, which [I guess centrifigurally] separate out particles. But I read (dunno remember where) that this "turbine" function is only effective on big engines, fuel guzzlers that slurp enough fuel though the filter to make the wheel spin. And that sailboat engines aren't anywhere that thirsty. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Fogging Cylinders == | ||
| + | |||
| + | ThomS originally had a comment here that Westerbeke FAQ said only need to fog cylinders if laying up more than 12 months. '''He was in error'''; was thinking of task of pulling injectors and '''''oiling''''' cylinders. We SHOULD fog cylinders if possible. | ||
== Holding Tank == | == Holding Tank == | ||
| Line 11: | Line 26: | ||
Yes. Per West Marine catalog: (index terms under Head: Chemicals, Deodorants, Lube, Treatments): | Yes. Per West Marine catalog: (index terms under Head: Chemicals, Deodorants, Lube, Treatments): | ||
| − | # <u>Chem</u> treatment kills bacteria, | + | # <u>Chem</u> treatment kills bacteria, masks smells with deodorant; |
| − | # <u>Enzyme</u> treatment | + | # <u>Enzyme</u> treatment accelerates organic work, neutralizes odors; |
# <u>Nitrate</u> treatment gives oxygen in badly ventilated tanks so organic work makes nitrogen (odorless) instead of hydrogen sulfide (stinky); QUESTION: is our smell "rotten eggs" or "poopy"? | # <u>Nitrate</u> treatment gives oxygen in badly ventilated tanks so organic work makes nitrogen (odorless) instead of hydrogen sulfide (stinky); QUESTION: is our smell "rotten eggs" or "poopy"? | ||
| − | # <u>Bio-active</u> treatment in well-ventilated tanks breaks down waste and | + | # <u>Bio-active</u> treatment in well-ventilated tanks breaks down waste and crowds out anaerobic (stinky) bacteria; QUESTION: does our 1" vent pipe and above deck vented (maybe?) cover imply "well-ventilated tank"? |
West catalog has 4, 2, 1, 2 products for treatment types 1,2,3,4 respectively, and 1 pump lube. | West catalog has 4, 2, 1, 2 products for treatment types 1,2,3,4 respectively, and 1 pump lube. | ||
I think we used a #2 (Headzyme brand) on Aleida. If we call our smell hydrogen sulfide (not poopy), I'd vote to upgrade to a #3 treatment. I'll sniff 'em out at next West marine visit. | I think we used a #2 (Headzyme brand) on Aleida. If we call our smell hydrogen sulfide (not poopy), I'd vote to upgrade to a #3 treatment. I'll sniff 'em out at next West marine visit. | ||
| Line 20: | Line 35: | ||
| − | == Genoa Fold & Bag == | + | == Antifreeze/rocksalt for bilge == |
| + | |||
| + | Dec07 thinking/plan: | ||
| + | Now that cover put on (09Dec) Ted has marked bilge water/antifreeze depth. This happened just before expected new snow/rain. If cover obviates more water in bilge, we can leave the antifreeze mix in bilge (and in hose and pump) for the winter season... Must check on this after maybe a week... | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | Oct-Nov07 mullings: | ||
| + | Something to decide on: Bilgepump leaves a few inches of water, maybe(?) enuf to hurt when frozen. We noticed a lot of water pumped out 04Nov, and we THINK(?) we ran bilgepump after hauling 26Oct. So did we get rainwater in big storm last week? Will the cover preclude more water? Should we put in the new bilgepump switch before winter? How much water do we need in bilge's sump before it will damage the fiberglass? If we DO want to count on bilgepump, rocksalt is called for. Otherwise, some antifreeze may obviate the worry. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | == Genoa Fold & Bag / Main == | ||
| + | |||
| + | Fran suggests getting this sail washed and checked. It's the smaller genoa, and our bigger one has been repaired, ahd we're guessing the bigger one will be installed in the Spring. Main should be washed & checked too. -- ThomS 03Nov then Fran & Thom 05Nov07 | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | == Batteries == | ||
| − | + | If we conclude that the bilge pump is not needed over the winter, we should consider removing the batteries and keeping them hooked up to a trickle charger over the winter. --[[User:Ted|Ted]] 14:11, 8 November 2007 (EST) | |
Latest revision as of 13:22, 4 July 2008
Contents
Fuel/Water Separator
We see about 3/8-inch water at bottom of bowl. Removed drain screw, air bubbles went in, [apparently] fuel came out but no water. Stopped draining because of fear of getting air in fuel lines when we might not be able to crank engine to bleed lines in very cold weather. First time I tried to loosen drain screw, it screeeached like it was going to break; indeed, it's cross-threaded, and I couldn't start it correctly when it replaced it after trying to drain water.
Another track of concern in winterizing is that it isn't clear that this device has a filter element that should be changed; seems it could, but it's not in Parts List. This CAV unit seems to have no part-number on the unit, and it doesn't match what's shown in the Parts List.
More study explains our confusion: Parts List p.214/216 (Fuel System) DOES picture our Filter (item 46, #11598 "Primary Fuel-Dedimenter Filter." Indeed, no filter element is listed.
Parts List p.218 (...Water Separator) shows a DIFFERENT "Water Separator". Ah ha! A filter element is listed (and a petcock at bottom looks MUCH easier to drain with than the nylon thumbscrew on the CAV unit.
Parts gal at Hansen Marine verifies that (a) our p.214 CAV unit is obselete; (b) the newer p.218 unit is a Racor R500MA. We can make life easy for $212 to MIT ($250 list).
There's another wrinkle: West Marine 2007 catalog has a Racor R500MA2. Thom guesses the "2" means it has the little metal bowl under the glass bowl. Catalog has an "education" block about ABYC requirements for diesel fuel filters: the metal bowl outside the plastic/glass bowl is a fire shield for units mounted in the engine compartment. The "turbine series" of filter/separators, of which the R500MA2 is one, seems to allow inspecting for water even though it has a metal cup. $256 list.
Let's see whether the surveyor demands one of these babies...
Noting something I read the last few months: The newer styles of these filter/separators emphasize the "turbine" feature, which [I guess centrifigurally] separate out particles. But I read (dunno remember where) that this "turbine" function is only effective on big engines, fuel guzzlers that slurp enough fuel though the filter to make the wheel spin. And that sailboat engines aren't anywhere that thirsty.
Fogging Cylinders
ThomS originally had a comment here that Westerbeke FAQ said only need to fog cylinders if laying up more than 12 months. He was in error; was thinking of task of pulling injectors and oiling cylinders. We SHOULD fog cylinders if possible.
Holding Tank
Is there some product available for putting in the holding tank to keep it from being stinky? --Ted 06:47, 23 October 2007 (EDT)
Yes. Per West Marine catalog: (index terms under Head: Chemicals, Deodorants, Lube, Treatments):
- Chem treatment kills bacteria, masks smells with deodorant;
- Enzyme treatment accelerates organic work, neutralizes odors;
- Nitrate treatment gives oxygen in badly ventilated tanks so organic work makes nitrogen (odorless) instead of hydrogen sulfide (stinky); QUESTION: is our smell "rotten eggs" or "poopy"?
- Bio-active treatment in well-ventilated tanks breaks down waste and crowds out anaerobic (stinky) bacteria; QUESTION: does our 1" vent pipe and above deck vented (maybe?) cover imply "well-ventilated tank"?
West catalog has 4, 2, 1, 2 products for treatment types 1,2,3,4 respectively, and 1 pump lube. I think we used a #2 (Headzyme brand) on Aleida. If we call our smell hydrogen sulfide (not poopy), I'd vote to upgrade to a #3 treatment. I'll sniff 'em out at next West marine visit. Note that types 2,3,4 don't like residual chemicals in tank when they're applied. Hence, can we wait 'til spring when we flush out the antifreeze? --ThomS 00:20, 3 November 2007 (EDT)
Antifreeze/rocksalt for bilge
Dec07 thinking/plan: Now that cover put on (09Dec) Ted has marked bilge water/antifreeze depth. This happened just before expected new snow/rain. If cover obviates more water in bilge, we can leave the antifreeze mix in bilge (and in hose and pump) for the winter season... Must check on this after maybe a week...
Oct-Nov07 mullings:
Something to decide on: Bilgepump leaves a few inches of water, maybe(?) enuf to hurt when frozen. We noticed a lot of water pumped out 04Nov, and we THINK(?) we ran bilgepump after hauling 26Oct. So did we get rainwater in big storm last week? Will the cover preclude more water? Should we put in the new bilgepump switch before winter? How much water do we need in bilge's sump before it will damage the fiberglass? If we DO want to count on bilgepump, rocksalt is called for. Otherwise, some antifreeze may obviate the worry.
Genoa Fold & Bag / Main
Fran suggests getting this sail washed and checked. It's the smaller genoa, and our bigger one has been repaired, ahd we're guessing the bigger one will be installed in the Spring. Main should be washed & checked too. -- ThomS 03Nov then Fran & Thom 05Nov07
Batteries
If we conclude that the bilge pump is not needed over the winter, we should consider removing the batteries and keeping them hooked up to a trickle charger over the winter. --Ted 14:11, 8 November 2007 (EST)
