Difference between revisions of "Fix traveller"

From MITNA
Jump to: navigation, search
m (Doeger interference corrected)
(Costs - decision time)
 
(3 intermediate revisions by one user not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
 
(See some [[2007 Traveler Pictures|pictures]] of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.)
 
(See some [[2007 Traveler Pictures|pictures]] of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.)
  
−
3/28/08: Matt and I (Kenn) visited Nevermore of March 19 (and almost got trapped like rats - but that is another story!). Following are the recommended fixes to the traveler, added to the original problem items, each one of which started a "*" list item.
+
May 23, 2007 -- I added prices to parts list below - Rig-rite said MIT did not have an account - however we could apply and may get a discount in the 5% to 20% range.  After rethinking the matter my gut is to replace the whole shebang which means wrestling/drilling the bolts of the top of the hatch. Un-discounted price is (inc shipping)$1,443 (+ cost of cleats) -- if we just replaced control cars @ ends the cost would be $358 (+cleats) - however we would have a traveler block that still does not ride well and a track that looks like hell. Opinions???
  
−
Matt: please edit!
+
May 17, 2008.
  
−
There are several problems with the traveller.
+
On May 10 we visited Nevermore and we made a drawing of the cross section of the traveler track and then I did some better research – the situation is:
  
−
* The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced.
+
Our traveler is a 3-1 system with a Nicro-Fico X track and Ronstan-Australia components. Harken parts are incompatible.  If we want Harken, the entire unit will have to be replaced, which means removing the existing track and replacing it with a Harken track. This is a major piece of work – requiring bolts to be drilled out, hatch dismantled, and then re-bolting. Consensus is that this is not worth the effort.
−
** 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float.
+
−
** 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified;  some lines need eye-splices, right? (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|T37 Owner's Instructions]], section IV "Rigging List", darn!)
+
  
−
* The car gets jammed on the track making it very difficult to move even if all lines are slack.  It either needs to be lubed, fixed, or replaced.
+
The screws holding the traveler car are fused as are the bolts in the tracks that serve as stops for the traveler block  (on wiki see pic 110 – the screws above the 3 and 5 on the ruler are fused.  See pic 140 – the “stop bolt” above the 48 on the ruler is fused.)
−
** 3/28; - the track while ugly and beaten on the port side (see pic 040) is functional and @ $500 for a new one replacing it should be deferred if possible.  The starboard block/car is mechanically sound.  The port side block and car are missing  -- if the unit can not be found we will need to buy new - HOWEVER if we replace it, the new car mechanism may not fit the existing track and we may be forced to purchase a new track.  
+
−
** 3/28; Does anyone know where the block is?
+
  
−
* The [[sheave|sheaves]] in all the blocks are broken.  The blocks need to be replaced.
+
I contacted Ronstan and they referred me to Rig-rite of RI or Holland Marine of Canada.  On Rig-rite’s web site (http://www.rigrite.com/) and found out that the parts are;
−
** 3/28; the starboard block is OK.  The two small blocks on the main block -- see pic110 -- need to be replaced. The main block itself seems mechanically sound.  We tried to remove the 2 small blocks w/ liquid wrench and a very large screw driver but could not budge them. Gave them a final dousing in LW and hopefully they will come free when we next visit. If not this may become a problem area - hacksaw? 
+
−
** 3/28; KS to purchase and replace.
+
  
−
* The [[padeye|padeyes]] at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line. They should be replaced.
+
a) 1 Traveler Track – P# NF 610 $349
−
** 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace
+
  
−
* The metal cam cleats at either end of the traveller are abrading the line when it is dragged over them.  They should be replaced with less destructive cleats.  (Note: mwall disagrees with tyoung on this issue).
+
b) 2 Travel Control Ends – P# NF 6612 (L & R) (with cam cleats) - 6613(w/O cam cleat) $179 ea
−
** 3/28; the cam cleats need to be removed from the block/car unit. New cleats will be mounted on the aft portion of the hatch cover near the existing H cleats which are next to the winches (see pic 010)
+
                                                                 
 +
c) 2 Rubber stops w/ pins – P# NF 611N & P - $42 ea
  
−
* The [[dodger]] interferes with movement of the traveller car when it is folded down. If the traveller rail can be moved forward half an inch, this would help a lot.
+
d) 1 4-wheel Traveler Car w/ Control blocks – P# NF 588 - $599
−
** 3/28; it is way to difficult/expensive/time consuming  to move traveler.  I removed the dodger that was attached to the hatch.  For the sake of this discussion the dodger is composed of a main bar and another attached bar.  I will cut 1" from each end of the attached bar and reattach the connecting pieces and reassemble.  This will make both bars equidistant from the traveler. The dodger may sag a bit but we think pulling the unit forward will snug it up - if not we may have to stitch the dodger fabric to get it taut.
+
  
−
***4/4; when I went to cut the bar - I found set screws on the underside! -- moving the unit forward reveled old "set marks"
+
Rig-rite has a no contact telephone/e-mail system and I had to fax an inquiry as to        parts availability and price – will advise prices when I receive reply.
−
so the unit either just got moved over time or someone reset it for what ever reason. I reset the bar to the original height and the two bars will now lie the same distance from the dodger.
+
 
 +
Major problems revolve around 2 (b) and 2 (d).
 +
 
 +
2 (b)  will be replaced by Travel Control Ends w/o cam cleats – P# NF 6613 L & R  - the plan is to cleat the unit on the hatch top – near the existing horn cleats – next to the winches – this will be a moderately difficult job as parts of the interior ceiling have to be removed to attach the thru bolts.
 +
 
 +
2 (d) – presents the most problems.  The unit does not roll easily on the tracks and the 2 side control blocks (w/ beckets) are in poor shape – however the unit is trapped by the fused screws/bolts.  I spoke w/ the owner of a machine shop and he said it is likely that they only way we can get this unit off and repaired is to drill out the screws/bolts – his response follows:
 +
 
 +
“Sounds like fun --- and, sounds like drilling out might be the easiest solution.  Assuming that we’re talking about joints that are secured by a combination of nuts & bolts, drilling out should be readily accomplished by:
 +
1)      use hardened punch to put a point spot on the end of the nut
 +
2)      use a carbide drill to remove the body of the bolt ‘til the nut comes free
 +
3)      Knock the remainder of the bolt out and discard
 +
4)      Replace with new SS fasteners
 +
If the joint is one where the bolt is threaded into a stainless body that must be saved, the drill size should be that of the minor diameter of the bolt --- once the bolt is drilled out, the hole can be re-tapped, using a tap, tap wrench and some tapping oil.
 +
Chances are, if you continue to torque the nuts, you’ll snap the bolts anyhow and perhaps have an angled surface to try to start the drill --- a little tougher.”
 +
If we have anybody w/ the tools and expertise to do this it might be worth the effort
 +
 
 +
Note; To clean up this page completed or irrelevant verbiage about the traveler was deleted - the 3 issues below were not addressed above.
 +
 
 +
There are several problems with the traveler.
 +
 
 +
* The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced.
 +
** 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float.
 +
** 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified;  some lines need eye-splices, right?  (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the [[Nevermore_Documents#T37_OI|T37 Owner's Instructions]], section IV "Rigging List", darn!)
 +
 
 +
* The [[padeye|padeyes]] at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line.  They should be replaced.
 +
** 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace
  
−
* The [[dodger]] limits the angle at which the traveller line can be pulled through the cam cleats.  This makes it difficult to get the line engaged in the cleat.  Larger cleats, perhaps mounted at a different angle, would help this.
 
−
** 3/28; Attaching cleats to the hatch (see above) should fix this.
 
  
 
[[Category:Maintenance Tasks]]
 
[[Category:Maintenance Tasks]]

Latest revision as of 16:08, 23 May 2008

(See some pictures of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.)

May 23, 2007 -- I added prices to parts list below - Rig-rite said MIT did not have an account - however we could apply and may get a discount in the 5% to 20% range. After rethinking the matter my gut is to replace the whole shebang which means wrestling/drilling the bolts of the top of the hatch. Un-discounted price is (inc shipping)$1,443 (+ cost of cleats) -- if we just replaced control cars @ ends the cost would be $358 (+cleats) - however we would have a traveler block that still does not ride well and a track that looks like hell. Opinions???

May 17, 2008.

On May 10 we visited Nevermore and we made a drawing of the cross section of the traveler track and then I did some better research – the situation is:

Our traveler is a 3-1 system with a Nicro-Fico X track and Ronstan-Australia components. Harken parts are incompatible. If we want Harken, the entire unit will have to be replaced, which means removing the existing track and replacing it with a Harken track. This is a major piece of work – requiring bolts to be drilled out, hatch dismantled, and then re-bolting. Consensus is that this is not worth the effort.

The screws holding the traveler car are fused as are the bolts in the tracks that serve as stops for the traveler block (on wiki see pic 110 – the screws above the 3 and 5 on the ruler are fused. See pic 140 – the “stop bolt” above the 48 on the ruler is fused.)

I contacted Ronstan and they referred me to Rig-rite of RI or Holland Marine of Canada. On Rig-rite’s web site (http://www.rigrite.com/) and found out that the parts are;

a) 1 Traveler Track – P# NF 610 $349

b) 2 Travel Control Ends – P# NF 6612 (L & R) (with cam cleats) - 6613(w/O cam cleat) $179 ea

c) 2 Rubber stops w/ pins – P# NF 611N & P - $42 ea

d) 1 4-wheel Traveler Car w/ Control blocks – P# NF 588 - $599

Rig-rite has a no contact telephone/e-mail system and I had to fax an inquiry as to parts availability and price – will advise prices when I receive reply.

Major problems revolve around 2 (b) and 2 (d).

2 (b) will be replaced by Travel Control Ends w/o cam cleats – P# NF 6613 L & R - the plan is to cleat the unit on the hatch top – near the existing horn cleats – next to the winches – this will be a moderately difficult job as parts of the interior ceiling have to be removed to attach the thru bolts.

2 (d) – presents the most problems. The unit does not roll easily on the tracks and the 2 side control blocks (w/ beckets) are in poor shape – however the unit is trapped by the fused screws/bolts. I spoke w/ the owner of a machine shop and he said it is likely that they only way we can get this unit off and repaired is to drill out the screws/bolts – his response follows:

“Sounds like fun --- and, sounds like drilling out might be the easiest solution. Assuming that we’re talking about joints that are secured by a combination of nuts & bolts, drilling out should be readily accomplished by: 1) use hardened punch to put a point spot on the end of the nut 2) use a carbide drill to remove the body of the bolt ‘til the nut comes free 3) Knock the remainder of the bolt out and discard 4) Replace with new SS fasteners 

If the joint is one where the bolt is threaded into a stainless body that must be saved, the drill size should be that of the minor diameter of the bolt --- once the bolt is drilled out, the hole can be re-tapped, using a tap, tap wrench and some tapping oil.

Chances are, if you continue to torque the nuts, you’ll snap the bolts anyhow and perhaps have an angled surface to try to start the drill --- a little tougher.” If we have anybody w/ the tools and expertise to do this it might be worth the effort

Note; To clean up this page completed or irrelevant verbiage about the traveler was deleted - the 3 issues below were not addressed above.

There are several problems with the traveler.

  • The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced.
    • 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float.
    • 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified; some lines need eye-splices, right? (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the T37 Owner's Instructions, section IV "Rigging List", darn!)
  • The padeyes at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line. They should be replaced.
    • 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace
Retrieved from "https://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php?title=Fix_traveller&oldid=2407"