Difference between revisions of "Fix traveller"

Revision as of 12:40, 4 April 2008

(See some pictures of the old 2007 traveler, i.e., the one on the boat when we got her.)

3/28/08: Matt and I (Kenn) visited Nevermore of March 19 (and almost got trapped like rats - but that is another story!). Following are the recommended fixes to the traveler, added to the original problem items, each one of which started a "*" list item.

Matt: please edit!

There are several problems with the traveller.

• The line is severely frayed and needs to be replaced.
  • 3/28; will replace during spring re-float. I assume the lines will be part of the general rope purchase for the spring re-float.
  • 3/29; TODO: line lengths, diameters, and material must be specified; some lines need eye-splices, right? (And ThomS notes that the traveller isn't mentioned in the T37 Owner's Instructions, section IV "Rigging List", darn!)

• The car gets jammed on the track making it very difficult to move even if all lines are slack. It either needs to be lubed, fixed, or replaced.
  • 3/28; - the track while ugly and beaten on the port side (see pic 040) is functional and @ $500 for a new one replacing it should be deferred if possible. The starboard block/car is mechanically sound. The port side block and car are missing -- if the unit can not be found we will need to buy new - HOWEVER if we replace it, the new car mechanism may not fit the existing track and we may be forced to purchase a new track.
  • 3/28; Does anyone know where the block is?

• The sheaves in all the blocks are broken. The blocks need to be replaced.
  • 3/28; the starboard block is OK. The two small blocks on the main block -- see pic110 -- need to be replaced. The main block itself seems mechanically sound. We tried to remove the 2 small blocks w/ liquid wrench and a very large screw driver but could not budge them. Gave them a final dousing in LW and hopefully they will come free when we next visit. If not this may become a problem area - hacksaw?
  • 3/28; KS to purchase and replace.

• The padeyes at either end of the traveller have sharp edges and they are abrading the line. They should be replaced.
  • 3/28 - KS to purchase and will replace

• The metal cam cleats at either end of the traveller are abrading the line when it is dragged over them. They should be replaced with less destructive cleats. (Note: mwall disagrees with tyoung on this issue).
  • 3/28; the cam cleats need to be removed from the block/car unit. New cleats will be mounted on the aft portion of the hatch cover near the existing H cleats which are next to the winches (see pic 010)

• The dodger interferes with movement of the traveller car when it is folded down. If the traveller rail can be moved forward half an inch, this would help a lot.
  • 3/28; it is way to difficult/expensive/time consuming to move traveler. I removed the dodger that was attached to the hatch. For the sake of this discussion the dodger is composed of a main bar and another attached bar. I will cut 1" from each end of the attached bar and reattach the connecting pieces and reassemble. This will make both bars equidistant from the traveler. The dodger may sag a bit but we think pulling the unit forward will snug it up - if not we may have to stitch the dodger fabric to get it taut.

• • • 4/4; when I went to cut the bar - I found set screws on the underside! -- moving the unit forward reveled old "set marks"

so the unit either just got moved over time or someone reset it for what ever reason. I reset the bar to the original height and the two bars will now lie the same distance from the dodger.

• The dodger limits the angle at which the traveller line can be pulled through the cam cleats. This makes it difficult to get the line engaged in the cleat. Larger cleats, perhaps mounted at a different angle, would help this.
  • 3/28; Attaching cleats to the hatch (see above) should fix this.